So we’ve barely made it into our candy-coloured Spring/Summer wardrobe (partly because of the deterring British weather!), but already sights are set on Autumn/Winter ‘12.
New York Fashion Week has blazed the trail for the London, Milan and Paris shows to succeed and culminate on March 7 in Paris. So, especially for you, Style have put together a preview from New York showing you what you can expect to be wearing come the autumn.
First, the colours. Expect a rich but cool-toned colour palette of black, white, cream, gold, burnt orange, tangerine, burgundy, scarlet, deep red, dutch blue (more luxurious than cobalt), mustard, lilac and mid-tone greys.
Where textures are concerned, black leather takes a prominent leadership in the fabric stakes, and will be a staple in most wardrobes. Whether you opt for a leather pleated skirt as seen at Ralph Lauren, a more subtle vest inspired by Michael Kors, Marchesa’s leather cut out dress, or mid-shin to knee length boots channelling catwalks from Calvin Klein, leather will very much be a major part of your look.
Keep your fashion eye out for fur. Despite being on our catwalks last Autumn/Winter it didn’t quite get the same impact as this year. Used as collars at Michael Kors, trims on hoods and lining on coats at L’Wren Scott, Marc Jacobs and Vera Wang, the look is slightly reminiscent of Oasis and Blur’s heyday. Either way, it looks set to be making a statement which I expect we’ll see pop up across the remaining three big fashion weeks.
If leather and fur aren’t really your idea of fashion heaven, fear not because New York has clearly been captivated by our very own Downtown Abbey, with Ralph Lauren even using the theme tune for their show music, proving that the 1920’s trend is here to stay for another season.
However, it progresses from the Great Gatsby to a more of a country feel with double breasted overcoats, fair isle print and tweed all making a comeback. T-bar shoes also made a reoccurring sashay down the runway, most beautifully used by Narcisco Rodriguez, Ralph Lauren, and Victoria by Victoria Beckham who showcased preppy dresses with dropped waists and statement cuffs.
Several nods were made to the 1940’s in New York including L’Wren Scott, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang and Michael Kors, who mixed his with the 20’s. Look out for long, slim lines cut close to the body; however bear in mind that these aren’t so forgiving if you opt for city shorts or trousers.
40’s inspired skirts take on two forms; the pencil and the pleated. If you’re feeling brave go for a pleated leather skirt for an edgier take on the lighter coloured chiffon skirts from the past few seasons, or if you’re more of a classic lady pencil skirts never fail to look stylish.
Still a little afraid of what New York has to offer? Anna Sui, Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs should make that better. Models including Lily Donaldson and Abbey Lee Kershaw strutted their stuff at Anna Sui with a 60’s influence in printed shift dresses in a colourful fushia, burnt orange, blue and lime green palette, mixed in with bomber jackets and stripy overcoats.
Whilst over at Proenza Schouler, the relaxed yet angular pieces were conveyed in a monochrome haul with accents of, Dutch blue and burnt orange (seriously you will own something in one of these colours by November).
Though the beautifully quilted jackets and skirt, and embellished beauties were captivating, nothing could steal the opening jacket’s thunder; a cream, almost broken opening jacket captured the hearts and minds of the audience. Marc Jacobs complemented the desired volume with A-line skirts, gathered waists and slouchy layered knitwear emulating a vintage yesteryear.
Coat-wise, leather is a timeless classic, but for a more on-trend look, go for a double-breasted knee-length mac in grey or tweed. Capes and voluminous trapeze coats are back and are sure to keep us nice and snug in the harsh winter weather, especially with a colour pop scarf in lilac, Dutch blue or burnt orange.
Anything else to look out for? Checks in black and white or red and black will see you through the season from shirts to skirts to ponchos, or for a little more edge try a houndstooth print. Save anything fair isle from last Autumn/Winter; keeping with the 20’s feel it will make you feel very Ralph Lauren.
Evening wear is a little more demure with its longer length and higher necklines, however anything low cut with sheer panelling will be on trend, especially if in black with just the right amount of sex appeal.
Alternatively, channel Marchesa for opulence in a colour scheme of cream and gold adorning pieces with either laser cut out or tulle and organza, similar to an Alexander McQueen’s collection from a few seasons back.
To sum up the feel of the season, there will be a definite contrast to Spring/Summer, where girly charms and pastel palettes shone bright. Next season’s trends have a more masculine edge, whilst still retaining a grown up femininity.
The cuts of pieces to look out for; knee length, calf length, large collars, high neck lines, slash necklines, deep necklines with sheer panelling to cover modesty but add a hint of flirtatiousness, cinched waists, asymmetry, drop waist and ponchos.
To top off your Autumn/Winter look, accessories are a must! Keeping to the vintage feel of New York’s fashion week, long gloves are a key item. Hats took over the hair piece trend, with a focus on cloche hats, but twisted hair was kept in place with brooches. Buy yourself a waist belt in either a metallic pewter (DKNY, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein all did them) or black to gain that all-important cinched in waist.
Keep all this in mind now, and by September when the trends start hitting the stores, you will be a step ahead and already working your edgy look!
